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          | Soft lighting Underlighting 
translucent beads
 Depth of field
 Exposure  for a white background
 Creating a 
dramatic black reflection
 | Prop up tall focal beads 
with wax Tricks to capture the shine of 
your beads
 Swarovski type bead photography
 Advanced 
          bead photo techniques
 Bead Photography Tools
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          | Taking 
    good quality pictures of glass beads can be very simple if you have the 
    proper setup.  Here 
    are some simple techniques which even amateur photographers can use to 
    obtain dramatic results with minimal effort.  The following 
    examples show the basic setup that should allow anyone to achieve results 
    they can be proud of.
 
    To simplify our setup we used an EZcube® 
    combined
    with an illuminated flat panel to provide soft, diffused lighting & 
    underlighting.  We used TableTop Studio's
    ShortEZ
    lights, equipped with daylight balanced compact fluorescent 
    bulbs, as the main light source. All of these lights are the same 5000k 
    color temperature and match nicely. 
    The keys to good glass bead photography are focus, 
    exposure, diffuse lighting, and in some special cases underlighting. 
    It is worth getting your camera's manual out to find out how to put the 
    camera in "spot focus" mode.  The normal focus mode of most digital 
    cameras is some sort of average focus mode.  That means that the camera 
    will try to look at an area and base the focus on an area of what it sees.  
    It's better for close up photography to put the camera into spot focus mode, 
    this will allow you to see exactly what the camera will  be focusing 
    on. Getting the camera to focus properly on the beads 
    entails some effort, but the results should be worth it. A final word on 
    focus.  The above steps assume that you are using your camera's auto 
    focus feature.  
    A couple of words about tripods and product 
    photography. Use one. As you get closer to an object any motion of the 
    camera is greatly magnified.  Even a surgeon probably doesn't  
    have hands steady enough to take a good product photo without using a tripod.  
    A sturdy tripod is essential for sharp images. 
    We mentioned above that the other key to some glass 
    bead 
    photography is the under lighting.  The Illuminated flat panel we 
    chose to use for our underlighting, matches the 5000k  daylight 
    color of the ShortEZ lightset we used. Whatever lights you choose, it is 
    critical that the color temperature of all your lighting matches. The 
    illuminated flat panel is not necessary for most product photography, and 
    will do little or nothing at all for most. However for translucent glass 
    with the right degree of transparency, the underlighting can give you 
    almost magical results, highlighting inner glass details that would otherwise go 
unnoticed. 
    Now lets look at some specific situations. |  | 
    
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 Combining Underlighting & 
      soft light
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        When photographing glass 
        beads, there are often details inside the glass that are not revealed by 
        traditional lighting techniques alone. In special cases, underlighting 
        can be just what you need to draw attention to those details.
 Without an EZcube® or illuminated flat 
        panel, the beads appear opaque, and cast unflattering shadows due to the 
        harsh, unsoftened light. 
        Using an EZcube®
        softens the light and eliminates the harsh reflections and shadows. 
        With the addition of the illuminated light panel, our final image 
        emphasizes the unique transparent details of each bead. 
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      Without an EZcube the shadows and reflections are harsh.
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      Click on above image to see the results | Click on above image to see 
      the results |  | 
    
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 Under lighting & greater depth of field
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          |  | The area in which 
        everything looks sharp is called depth of field. Objects within the 
        depth of field become less sharp the farther they are from the plane of 
        critical focus.
 By raising the tripod and moving it 
        closer, shooting almost straight down, all of the necklace will be in the 
        same plane of focus. This way when you focus on one 
        section of the necklace, the rest of the necklace is also at about the 
        same focal distance from the camera.
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          | The 
      17" necklace fits snuggly on the
 6 x 8" illuminated surface, a bit too close
 to the edge for cropping.
 
 | By 
      unclasping the necklace, and
 repositioning it, we can easily crop out the edge of the light panel in 
      the final image.
 
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      Here we see most of our beads are in focus.
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 Exposure setting for a white background
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     Handmade  pet portrait bead by
    L & S Arts
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        When shooting against a white background, 
        your camera will automatically underexpose because it is tricked into 
        thinking there is more light than there really is. For the white to 
        apear white we need to adjust the cameras exposure setting. The first photo with cameras default setting E.V. 0., 
        is way too dark. {underexposed}. The second image I set the camera to E.V. +1.0 
        to brighten the image. In the third image, I bumped 
        up the E.V. to +2.0 for the whitest background. Be careful not too 
        overexpose or the bright colors will begin look washed out. |  | 
    
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          | E.V. 
      0.0 too dark-underexposed
 | E.V. 
      +1.0 brighter
 | E.V. +2.0 brightest exposure
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 Standing up tall focal beads or pendants using 
    wax
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       Handmade  bead by  CYNTHIA 
      TAYLOR
 
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        Wax is a great
        invisible hand when it comes to standing up tall focal beads or 
        pendants. There are many different types of wax that can be used.  By standing 
        the bead upright, the shiny black acrylic reflects 
        the most prominent design area of the bead, the front side. Just place a small bead of wax on the 
        bottom of your focal bead or pendant to stand it upright. 
         Remember a little goes a long way. To 
        clean up I wipe as much as possible off my acrylic stand with a dry 
        paper towel. Then I use a little Windex to remove the remaining smudge. The wax should hold instantly and 
        remain in place overnight even. Some of my setups lasted for days, 
        without tipping. The same wax can also be reused again and again. |  | 
    
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       Creating 
      a dramatic reflection using "black ice"
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 Handmade  marble by  MICHAEL PETURA
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        A shiny black acrylic 
        platform creates a dramatic reflection of any bead or marble placed on top. 
        Once again I used a tiny bead of wax to hold the marble in place.
 By inserting a black piece of paper 
        along the back and inside roof of the cube we can eliminate all of the 
        unwanted tent reflections. If we do not ad a piece of black paper the 
        white tent will be reflected clearly on the black surface. The result is 
        a pure black background with a dramatic reflection. 
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    Making your beads appear more 
    shiny
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     Handmade glass bead by artist LEAH FAIRBANKS
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        items do not appear as shiny as you would like. The softened light is so 
        even, there are no areas of sharp light contrast, which is what our eyes 
        look for to determine an objects shininess.
 The photo below/left shows the soft 
        light that can make a very shiny object appear dull and non reflective. By using a piece of black paper, we 
        cut a rectangular shape out of it and shine the light through that side 
        of the tent. This rectangle will produce a 
        rectangular shaped highlight as shown to the left. This sharp rectangle 
        of bright contrast is what our eyes look for in shiny objects. You can 
        also have some fun and cut a window shape. |  | 
    
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     Here the glass bead does not appear to be
 shiny 
    due to the soft light
 
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     Setup with light shining 
    through black rectangle
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    Making your beads appear more precious
 
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      |  | Here's a quick and EZ way to add a 
    touch of glamour to your images in post production. You can often see this 
    effect used on the jewelry shopping TV shows, in luxury car 
    brochures, and in printed or televised ads for cars, diamonds, and other 
    precious objects.
 These star effects in the past have been created using a special camera 
      filter that attaches to your camera lens. To get a different star you 
      needed a different lens filter.
 But now this star effect is a simple jpg file that can be dragged and 
      dropped onto your final image. Many different styles to choose from, and 
      so easy to use.
 
 Clear and simple video tutorial that will have you productive within 
      minutes.
      
      Here is an example of how it works...
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