If you have never used a steamer before, then be sure to view the videos of using a steamer on the Jiffy Steamer web site. They show how to run the steamer along the front and inside of each piece removing wrinkles along the way. I have burned plenty of clothing in the past, by holding a hot iron on one spot for too long. So for me, working with a small steamer was a real treat. Also, there you can't add new creases by mistake, as commonly occurs when ironing. |
You may have noticed if you are shooting without a diffuser, that your shadows are too strong, and may be overwhelming your product. Professional photographers use soft diffused lighting to get the best results. The new Tabletop Studio Kuhl Lites are unique in design, they hold four 30W bulbs each and include a removable diffusion panel. The choice of using 1-4 bulbs provides a huge amount of flexibility for lighting. |
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Flat art photography inherently poses certain lighting challenges. The lights used need to provide smooth, even lighting over a very large, broad, flat surface. To achieve balanced, even lighting we will use two large 20" soft boxes {Kuhl Lite120's}. The set shown here included optional diffusion panels that can be attached to the front to soften the light. Since our items are flat, it's fine to position two equal light sources on opposite sides of the clothing. Normally this flattens an image. But our items are truly flat; like a poster, so flat lighting is fine.The large size of the soft boxes complements the large size of the clothing to provide very smooth, even coverage. |
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You may not be shooting the Grand Canyon, but you'll still want a wide angle lens for photographing clothing. I used a 28-100mm lens for most of these examples, but a nice 18-55mm would work great too. Be aware that as you go down closer to 18mm your clothing images may show some signs of warping. Just pay attention to the images as you go, to be sure your not using too wide an angle for the item. Let the results be your guide if your lens is adjustable. |
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Use a camera that has a short focal length {wide angle} lens. This will allow you to see a larger area of your subject; the entire piece of clothing. A wide angle lens views a larger
"wider" area vs. a zoom or macro lens that narrows the view to a
smaller section of space. Your camera should be positioned directly above the clothing. If the tripod is raised up high, use a small step ladder to safely look through your cameras viewfinder. |
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It is convenient to use a tethered setup between camera and computer to control the camera. Many cameras include this software for free. In this case you can instantly view the image on the computer screen, allowing for faster feedback. This is a time saver in most cases. The only real financial investment needed is the cable long cable that runs from the computer to the camera. Most recent camera models include the software for free. |
Surf the web a little doing some research on styling you like for items similar to yours. Patagonia & the Gap spend a fortune on clothing stylists, so why not look at their item layouts if they are similar to yours. Knowing what you would like your piece to look like in the final image is a good idea before you begin. If you don't have an idea in mind you could spend hours fussing over the stuffing etc. without getting a good shot. Save yourself some time and frustration by doing your homework first. What do other sellers do with similar products that work? |
Photoshop tricks can do many wonderful things for tweaking a final image but I have yet to see it remove wrinkles from a shirt! If you plan to shoot lots of clothing then you'll be thrilled with the little Jiffy esteam hand held travel steamer that I used. The travel size is about the size of a coffee thermos and can steam 5 to 10 articles of clothing in between refills, depending on their size. It is not industrial size, but I found it was not as messy to use as the larger commercial size. The commercial size is the size of a vacuum cleaner. |
Photographing a mannequin is far easier than shooting a live, moving model. The lighting requirements are not as elaborate {you do not need strobes}, the mannequin holds absolutely still, and is always available. On the down side a mannequin cannot dress itself. |
There are so many styles of mannequins to choose from, the choices can be overwhelming. The mannequin that I selected to purchase was a life size 5'9" female that can accommodate a wig. As we proceed you will how a wig is key to creating a more lifelike illusion. I chose, and recommend you do too, a style that has no neck seam. The arms, hands and legs on mine do have seams where they attach to the body. A full size mannequin is a For lighting the mannequin we used soft boxes similar to the ones used for "flat or folded" clothing, however we increased the size to our largest 20" x 30" Kuhl Lite 120R soft boxes. They hold the same four bulbs, but the larger size and shape fits with the mannequin better. If you were shooting a live, moving model you would use more expensive strobes. But our mannequin is stone still and will not move during a long shutter speed, producing motion blur. In this photo I show the lights I used to take the examples photos that follow. Two primary light sources for the clothing; and then in addition to these I used one or two lights to light the white wall behind the mannequin so I could more easily strip out the background. The back lights are not shown in this photo, and do not effect the the mannequin's lighting. If you use background lights be sure to place them so the light is directed only onto the background; this will blow the background out to close to pure white. Be sure that all of your lights match in color or you will not be happy with the results. NEVER mix different light source bulb colors. I used all 5000K daylight balanced bulbs.If you wanted to change the background color you could place a colored gel clipped the the soft box front panel. |
For my example images, I placed one of the side lights forward and one a bit back to create almost even lighting, but still give the shape dimension. If your lights a directly opposite of each other they will create flat lighting, that makes the mannequin look flat. A third soft box was used to light the background. This helps to separate the figure from the background, and will make stripping the background out fast and easy if you choose. The images below did not have the, white wall, backgrounds stripped out. Nordstrom's website does not strip out the background for the women's sweater section. Go ahead and look at the site for ideas on what you like for background ideas ... |
If you decide you want a completely stripped out, page white, background, it is easy. Photoshop elements, the scaled down less expensive version of Photoshop, will do the trick. Select the background using the selection tool set to 25-30. Inverse the selection to highlight the mannequin. Create a new layer of just her. Then fill the layer below with white. Michaelstars website uses this trick for the entire site. It's up to you! |
Clothing photography has many different subgroups that make it difficult to put together the perfect clothing photography kit for all situations. Many sellers specialize in just a a section of the clothing market such as woman's clothing, children's or men's. The equipment recommendations change slightly with the different categories. The setup below works great for laying the clothing flat. If you decide to use a mannequin I would recommend our largest size 20"x30" Kuhl Lite soft boxes. They use the same four 30W bulbs as our Kuhl Lite 120's, but the larger size soft box dimension will provide a larger area of soft lighting. Also when using mannequin, a third light is ideal, for lighting the background behind the mannequin. |
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